Friends and family; mountains and sea

Having waved goodbye to Lee and Natacha at Marti Marina in Turkey, Phoenix heads back out into the wild Aegean to meet up with original crew members Pete and Faye.  En route the intrepid ship spends a night in a quiet bay to the north of Kalimnos.

We meet up with Pete and Faye at Pete's fathers house high in the mountains of Patmos.  The town surrounds the monastery of St John the Theologian founded in 1083 close to the cave in which St. John wrote the Book of Revelations. The town was built at high altitude and with narrow streets to allow the locals to escape the muderous intent of marauding pirates to take refuge in the monastry by jumping from roof to roof without descending to street level.

The views were breath taking and spending a time at the house with Pete and Faye allowed us to take a break from  life afloat

Looking east over the rooftops.

The monastery of St John. 

We visited the monastery expecting to see yet another Greek Orthodox church.  The view from the entrance over the island was breathtaking and gave a glimpse of the unexpected treasure to come.

Once inside the monastery the public are allowed into one of the ten chapels.  It was empty when we went in and we were immediately both affected by the spirituality of the chapel. It was a very special few moments that will stay with us for a very long time.  Visiting the cave was very similar, being somewhere where an apostle had lived and worked and where God had delivered his word.

After leaving Pete and Faye on Patmos we headed south for several days stopping off at small bays in Turkey until we found ourselves back at Marti Marina.  Hey ho!  Mikes brother Andy and sister-in-law Cathy arrive in a big yellow taxi.  Off down the coast we found the bay of Dirsak with its clear turquoise blue sea and its quaint taverna.  On with the sub aqua gear and down to 20m looking for artefacts. 

Back on the trail of the Roman Legions and Knidos, Andy gives a short but very British recital.

Playing the English tourists.  Cath and Andy inspecting the old city walls.

Back to Marti Marina, our favourite, with its swimming pool and internationally renown restaurant, set amongst the idylic landscape of southern Turkey.  The ultimate chill out zone.

Nearing the end of this years journey we left Marti for the last time en route for Datca to organise a winter mooring for Phoenix.

Divers do it grubbing along the bottom!

In mid August Phoenix was joined by Mike's old sailing buddy Lee and his daughter Natacha.  Lee helped installing the diving compressor on Phoenix back in the UK so diving was going to be a big part of his time on the her.  They flew into Thira just missing the howling meltemi and we soon headed for a quiet cove in Astipalia. (photo below).  We were soon in the water exploring underwater gorges with a local guide on the island of Kalimnos and subsequently in every quiet little bay we found. The water around the Greek Islands and Turkey is as clear as a mountain spring but as warm as a bubble bath - Lee who normally dives in zero degrees with zero visability in the North Sea will never be the same again!

Friends, Romans, Geordies; Lend me your ears. We come this day not to do battle but to visit the ancient Roman ruins at Knidos, Turkey.

The amphitheatre needs a spot of repair but no problems as we have a couple of Civil Engineers on board.                                                                                                              

                                                                                                              

                                                                                                                               

Knidos was a Roman city coming down to the waters edge where now modern yachts moor replacing the galleys of old.

Old friends and old crew reunite in Datca, as we meet up with Levo who we last saw in Italy and we dine on the beach at the waters edge.












Not Roman this time but Neo Classical Greek on the island of  Simi. Beautiful buildings but Greece at its most chaotic.

 Into the Gulf of Corinth, with Paul and Fabi, we just squeezed under the longest cable-stay bridge in the world,  heading eastwards towards the Corinth Canal.  Started by Nero (with the assistance of 6000 Jewish slaves) it was finished by the French in 1893.  The canal was hewn through 50metres depth of solid rock for 6 miles and is the most expensive canal in the world at E210 per trip!!! 

Knowing that passing through the canal would be a once in a lifetime journey we took turns in helming with only a few metres either side.

As we passed through the canal a bungy jumper tries to hitch a lift on our aft deck.

                                                                                                                                   

 Somethings never change.  Old wooden fishing boats in daily use from the port of Aegina.














We drank beer, swam and made merry down through the islands if Kithnos, Sifnos, Milos and into Thira.  We had a premature leaving from the port of Sifnos where we woke up a mile out to sea in a force 6 after dragging our anchor.  However, we understand from other skippers that this is a 'right-of-passage' in these islands.

The fiercest Meltemi in 20 years blew from the north as Phoenix
sailed infront of it heading south.  Paul pleaded for all sails to be
hoisted but the captain stuck to his guns and a maximum of three
was maintained.  Fabbi was a trooper and kept everyone well fed
when she was the only one capable of going below.

Old Thira built on a mountain top after the original town (some say - including us - to be the mythical town of Atlantis) was blown away in a volcanic eruption in 1453BC.  This also, according to the pilot book, produced a tsunami 100mtres high which moved throught the Med at 160kph from which the Minoans never recovered. 

Throughout the islands there are churches perched on mountain tops, squeezed into the tiniest of spaces in towns and villages and in the middle of fields in the middle of nowhere - and they are all locked!  However, we have been in a couple of larger churches and even a monastery chapel which were very ellaborate - Greek Orthodox - but had a feeling of serenity and holyness.

Galipolli to Patras

                                                   
Paul and Claire, Emerald Bay, Anti Paxos




Floating swing bridge, Levkas canal. Between mainland Greece and Nisos Lekkas




Inland Gulf of Amvrakia.  Roman ruins at Nicopoli




Pirates off Sephalonia!!!


Stilt houses, Missalonghi, Gulf of Patras




                                          






New crew, Claire and Pete, arrive during a stormy night in Galipolli and work like Trojans to keep old Phoenix away from the quayside.  But like all tropical winds they are a storm in a teacup and by morning the sun was out again.  Goodbye Italy, we're heading for the Greek Islands.  First island Othoni where the anchorage was a bay with a taverna - this is more like it!  Heading westward to Corfu with a stop at the old town which was a warren of small streets and delicious smells.  And in the middle A Cricket Ground!!!  Another possible venue for a tour from Mount Edgcoumbe Cricket Club. Heading south we found Emerald Bay at Anti Paxos where the colour of the water lived up to its name and we snorkled and chased fish. 

Following in the wake of Octavius as he did battle with Mark Anthony during one of the many Roman civil wars, Phoenix sailed into the inland Gulf of Amvrakia where we struggled with the dinghy over an old Roman port to find the ruins of Nicopoli, a city built by Octavius in commemoration of his victory over his rival.
Through the Levkas canal with its swinging floating bridge and onto Spartakahori, Meganisi where we found the most beautiful taverna at sea level and an even better one on the cliff 500m above. Dodged the pirates off Cephalonia and made it safe to Zakinthos on the only stormy day we had.  Heading back inland we came across the stilted fishermans houses of Missalonghi and onward to our final destination of Patras.

Another exciting time. This time accompanied by Levo our Turkish crewmember for 10 days. After leaving Corsica in our wake Phoenix headed for the sun and found Elba. Lots of evidence of Napoleon but he couldn’t be found – has he escaped again??? Phoenix is on for the chase. Down through the islands of Ponsa, Ententone, Capri but lost the trail in the back streets of Naples. Searched in the old ruins of Ostia and Herculaneum but all we found was brandy!

Took on the Roman devil of Messina and outran her with a force six through the straights avoiding all whirlpools.   After this every day it's light winds, glorious sunshine and sleeping on deck counting the stars moored in idyllic bays and inlets

A thousand miles on after leaving Barcelona and Phoenix is still trundling along like the thoroughbred she is and now waiting for the next crew at Gallipoli on the heel of Italy.

Greek Islands here we come

Eating Roman style in Ostia, an ancient Roman city.

Under full sail - life is just for cuddling!

A glorious sunset in the wes Med

Parked under the shadow of Vesuvius

June

What a month June has been; amazing highs and awful lows. The easiest way to tell you is probably as a diary.


12th Graham and Pat arrived. It seemed like the twelfth of never after all their problems but thankfully they made it.

15th Mike’s new teeth installed and looking magnificent – many many thanks to Judith and Hesther. We left BCN at last and headed for Corsica.

16th calm seas but Alison and Pat not feeling well. Saw loads of dolphins though which was better than I'd ever thought it would be(Alison).

17th same as 16th until about midnight – engine failure. Mike and Graham spent hours taking engine to pieces and putting together again – success – what clever boys they are.

18thWeather deteriorated and we arrived into Calvi with virtually no fuel in rough seas – but at last Alison was over sea sickness and loved the exhilaration of the sail. Went straight into the ‘Carinage’ ( boat hospital) but it was Saturday so nothing done until Monday.

Boat finally fixed by Wednesday. We spent our time in Calvi – a beautiful town in NW Corsica – eating, sightseeing, swimming (azure blue sea, white sand, no waves, backdrop of snow capped mountains).


23rd Five hour sail to Girolata a lovely hidden bay where the mountains come down to the sea.

24th decided to stay for the day and played – dingy to shore, snorkelling etc. Great until about 9pm when Mike smelt diesel. More engine problems – another sleepless night. This time we thought the trip was over.

25th Returned to Calvi. Weather changed, as it does in the Med – 40 mph tail winds and up to nearly 9 knotts in a swell of 6foot. Not for the feint hearted – or Alison and Pat. Straight to Carinage and wait until Monday again