Friends and family; mountains and sea

Having waved goodbye to Lee and Natacha at Marti Marina in Turkey, Phoenix heads back out into the wild Aegean to meet up with original crew members Pete and Faye.  En route the intrepid ship spends a night in a quiet bay to the north of Kalimnos.

We meet up with Pete and Faye at Pete's fathers house high in the mountains of Patmos.  The town surrounds the monastery of St John the Theologian founded in 1083 close to the cave in which St. John wrote the Book of Revelations. The town was built at high altitude and with narrow streets to allow the locals to escape the muderous intent of marauding pirates to take refuge in the monastry by jumping from roof to roof without descending to street level.

The views were breath taking and spending a time at the house with Pete and Faye allowed us to take a break from  life afloat

Looking east over the rooftops.

The monastery of St John. 

We visited the monastery expecting to see yet another Greek Orthodox church.  The view from the entrance over the island was breathtaking and gave a glimpse of the unexpected treasure to come.

Once inside the monastery the public are allowed into one of the ten chapels.  It was empty when we went in and we were immediately both affected by the spirituality of the chapel. It was a very special few moments that will stay with us for a very long time.  Visiting the cave was very similar, being somewhere where an apostle had lived and worked and where God had delivered his word.

After leaving Pete and Faye on Patmos we headed south for several days stopping off at small bays in Turkey until we found ourselves back at Marti Marina.  Hey ho!  Mikes brother Andy and sister-in-law Cathy arrive in a big yellow taxi.  Off down the coast we found the bay of Dirsak with its clear turquoise blue sea and its quaint taverna.  On with the sub aqua gear and down to 20m looking for artefacts. 

Back on the trail of the Roman Legions and Knidos, Andy gives a short but very British recital.

Playing the English tourists.  Cath and Andy inspecting the old city walls.

Back to Marti Marina, our favourite, with its swimming pool and internationally renown restaurant, set amongst the idylic landscape of southern Turkey.  The ultimate chill out zone.

Nearing the end of this years journey we left Marti for the last time en route for Datca to organise a winter mooring for Phoenix.

Divers do it grubbing along the bottom!

In mid August Phoenix was joined by Mike's old sailing buddy Lee and his daughter Natacha.  Lee helped installing the diving compressor on Phoenix back in the UK so diving was going to be a big part of his time on the her.  They flew into Thira just missing the howling meltemi and we soon headed for a quiet cove in Astipalia. (photo below).  We were soon in the water exploring underwater gorges with a local guide on the island of Kalimnos and subsequently in every quiet little bay we found. The water around the Greek Islands and Turkey is as clear as a mountain spring but as warm as a bubble bath - Lee who normally dives in zero degrees with zero visability in the North Sea will never be the same again!

Friends, Romans, Geordies; Lend me your ears. We come this day not to do battle but to visit the ancient Roman ruins at Knidos, Turkey.

The amphitheatre needs a spot of repair but no problems as we have a couple of Civil Engineers on board.                                                                                                              

                                                                                                              

                                                                                                                               

Knidos was a Roman city coming down to the waters edge where now modern yachts moor replacing the galleys of old.

Old friends and old crew reunite in Datca, as we meet up with Levo who we last saw in Italy and we dine on the beach at the waters edge.












Not Roman this time but Neo Classical Greek on the island of  Simi. Beautiful buildings but Greece at its most chaotic.

 Into the Gulf of Corinth, with Paul and Fabi, we just squeezed under the longest cable-stay bridge in the world,  heading eastwards towards the Corinth Canal.  Started by Nero (with the assistance of 6000 Jewish slaves) it was finished by the French in 1893.  The canal was hewn through 50metres depth of solid rock for 6 miles and is the most expensive canal in the world at E210 per trip!!! 

Knowing that passing through the canal would be a once in a lifetime journey we took turns in helming with only a few metres either side.

As we passed through the canal a bungy jumper tries to hitch a lift on our aft deck.

                                                                                                                                   

 Somethings never change.  Old wooden fishing boats in daily use from the port of Aegina.














We drank beer, swam and made merry down through the islands if Kithnos, Sifnos, Milos and into Thira.  We had a premature leaving from the port of Sifnos where we woke up a mile out to sea in a force 6 after dragging our anchor.  However, we understand from other skippers that this is a 'right-of-passage' in these islands.

The fiercest Meltemi in 20 years blew from the north as Phoenix
sailed infront of it heading south.  Paul pleaded for all sails to be
hoisted but the captain stuck to his guns and a maximum of three
was maintained.  Fabbi was a trooper and kept everyone well fed
when she was the only one capable of going below.

Old Thira built on a mountain top after the original town (some say - including us - to be the mythical town of Atlantis) was blown away in a volcanic eruption in 1453BC.  This also, according to the pilot book, produced a tsunami 100mtres high which moved throught the Med at 160kph from which the Minoans never recovered. 

Throughout the islands there are churches perched on mountain tops, squeezed into the tiniest of spaces in towns and villages and in the middle of fields in the middle of nowhere - and they are all locked!  However, we have been in a couple of larger churches and even a monastery chapel which were very ellaborate - Greek Orthodox - but had a feeling of serenity and holyness.

Galipolli to Patras

                                                   
Paul and Claire, Emerald Bay, Anti Paxos




Floating swing bridge, Levkas canal. Between mainland Greece and Nisos Lekkas




Inland Gulf of Amvrakia.  Roman ruins at Nicopoli




Pirates off Sephalonia!!!


Stilt houses, Missalonghi, Gulf of Patras




                                          






New crew, Claire and Pete, arrive during a stormy night in Galipolli and work like Trojans to keep old Phoenix away from the quayside.  But like all tropical winds they are a storm in a teacup and by morning the sun was out again.  Goodbye Italy, we're heading for the Greek Islands.  First island Othoni where the anchorage was a bay with a taverna - this is more like it!  Heading westward to Corfu with a stop at the old town which was a warren of small streets and delicious smells.  And in the middle A Cricket Ground!!!  Another possible venue for a tour from Mount Edgcoumbe Cricket Club. Heading south we found Emerald Bay at Anti Paxos where the colour of the water lived up to its name and we snorkled and chased fish. 

Following in the wake of Octavius as he did battle with Mark Anthony during one of the many Roman civil wars, Phoenix sailed into the inland Gulf of Amvrakia where we struggled with the dinghy over an old Roman port to find the ruins of Nicopoli, a city built by Octavius in commemoration of his victory over his rival.
Through the Levkas canal with its swinging floating bridge and onto Spartakahori, Meganisi where we found the most beautiful taverna at sea level and an even better one on the cliff 500m above. Dodged the pirates off Cephalonia and made it safe to Zakinthos on the only stormy day we had.  Heading back inland we came across the stilted fishermans houses of Missalonghi and onward to our final destination of Patras.

Another exciting time. This time accompanied by Levo our Turkish crewmember for 10 days. After leaving Corsica in our wake Phoenix headed for the sun and found Elba. Lots of evidence of Napoleon but he couldn’t be found – has he escaped again??? Phoenix is on for the chase. Down through the islands of Ponsa, Ententone, Capri but lost the trail in the back streets of Naples. Searched in the old ruins of Ostia and Herculaneum but all we found was brandy!

Took on the Roman devil of Messina and outran her with a force six through the straights avoiding all whirlpools.   After this every day it's light winds, glorious sunshine and sleeping on deck counting the stars moored in idyllic bays and inlets

A thousand miles on after leaving Barcelona and Phoenix is still trundling along like the thoroughbred she is and now waiting for the next crew at Gallipoli on the heel of Italy.

Greek Islands here we come

Eating Roman style in Ostia, an ancient Roman city.

Under full sail - life is just for cuddling!

A glorious sunset in the wes Med

Parked under the shadow of Vesuvius

June

What a month June has been; amazing highs and awful lows. The easiest way to tell you is probably as a diary.


12th Graham and Pat arrived. It seemed like the twelfth of never after all their problems but thankfully they made it.

15th Mike’s new teeth installed and looking magnificent – many many thanks to Judith and Hesther. We left BCN at last and headed for Corsica.

16th calm seas but Alison and Pat not feeling well. Saw loads of dolphins though which was better than I'd ever thought it would be(Alison).

17th same as 16th until about midnight – engine failure. Mike and Graham spent hours taking engine to pieces and putting together again – success – what clever boys they are.

18thWeather deteriorated and we arrived into Calvi with virtually no fuel in rough seas – but at last Alison was over sea sickness and loved the exhilaration of the sail. Went straight into the ‘Carinage’ ( boat hospital) but it was Saturday so nothing done until Monday.

Boat finally fixed by Wednesday. We spent our time in Calvi – a beautiful town in NW Corsica – eating, sightseeing, swimming (azure blue sea, white sand, no waves, backdrop of snow capped mountains).


23rd Five hour sail to Girolata a lovely hidden bay where the mountains come down to the sea.

24th decided to stay for the day and played – dingy to shore, snorkelling etc. Great until about 9pm when Mike smelt diesel. More engine problems – another sleepless night. This time we thought the trip was over.

25th Returned to Calvi. Weather changed, as it does in the Med – 40 mph tail winds and up to nearly 9 knotts in a swell of 6foot. Not for the feint hearted – or Alison and Pat. Straight to Carinage and wait until Monday again

More time in Calvi as tourists. Mike trecked up a local mountain (Capu di a Veta), while Alison, Pat and Graham went out for a very gooey continental breakfast. In the evening we had a beach bbq with dancing and silly games. Passers-by were very intrigued!


27th Engineer tells us problem not as bad as we thought and fixes it. Mike now £1500 worse off!!! Alison has her third phone stolen – her new iphone.

28th Pat and Graham leave for home while Mike and Alison decide how to make up for all the lost time.

29th We hire a scooter for the day and head for the hills. We decide that Corsica is a hidden gem and hope not too many people find out about it. It’s a very easy place to fall for. Mountains, sea, lush green vegetation, amazing views around every corner.

Beach bbq

View of Calvi from Mike's mountain walk

View from our scooter ride

Arriving in Calvi

Girolato

Marooned

So much for those sunny days.  We have been marooned in Barcelona and our new ETD is 15 June.  This is because poor Pat has had shingles and been really poorly - fortunately before they came over so at least she had the comfort of her own bed.  Mike too has had further problems with - you guessed it, his new gnashers - and also a bad back (no comments please!!!).  All things happen for a reason though and the reason this time is that the weather has been awful and we probably would not have set off yet anyway. 
Mike has at last finished the painting, inbetween thunder storms, and all the timber has been teak oiled and looks like new.  Alison has been visiting Al Campo at least once a day to provision the boat for the voyage.
Last weekend there was an extreme sports invasion in the exhibition area next door, which was amazing:-

We have taken up the slightly less dangerous sport of beach volleyball - which is far more strenuous than it looks - especially when you are over 25.  But the sporting highlight of the tour so far - de de de de de dddddeeeeerrrrrr (fanfare) ALISON BEAT MIKE AT TABLE TENNIS!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quick update

Life has been carrying on at a sedate pace. It's now getting to be quite hot most days and the beach and the blue Med beckon most days. Mike jumps in then quickly out again - but once he is used to the temp he swims quite a way out . 
We've visited Mont Juic Castle - an old Barcelona fortification - with magnificent views over the city.  On Sunday we actually ventured out of the port with Dan and Luna and anchored off on Badalona beach where the lads jumped overboard!!! Monday was Alison's birthday - the day started with a champagne breakfast and ended with cocktails in the city.
Tomorrow we are evacuating from Port Forum as the Prima Vera Musica - pop festival - is taking place right next door.  The 'music' starts at 4.00pm and ends at 6.00am.  Far too late for oldies like us.  We'll go along the coast for a few days then back to stock up before the trip at last starts on the 6th.

We have noticed that the blog is read all over the world - thanks, danker, merci, gracias to all our readers - it would be good to hear from some of you.

Not sure when we will be able to update after leaving Barcelona so take care all.

Just another Sunday

We had a quiet Sunday as one of us had a hangover to get over although Mike did go for a long jog in the morning.  In the early evening sunshine we took the tram to the end of the line which took us to the next port along the coast.  We then walked the two miles back along the beach and of course stopped for an ice cream - a Magnum is E2.8 (£2.50)!!!!!

We did get into the mountains on Friday and had a great day.  The scenery was magnificent and changed around every corner.  We drove to over 1700m and up and down inclines of up to 10% with terrifying drops but also through lovely mountain pastures with alpine flowers of pink, yellow, cream and bright blue.  We saw the local choughs and the brightest yellow bird (that we can't identify) that is imaginable.

The villages were all built of local stone, inbetween chalet and townhouses in design.  Even the remotest were being modernised and had holiday homes amongst them but they were very attractive.

We had videos so you could hear the cuckoos and the cows with their noisy bells but for some season they won't upload - but you probably get the idea!!!

Saturday 14 May 2011

A great day for Manchester - whatever colour you are.  The reds have pulled off the premiership and the best team in the world, Manchester City, have begun their comeback winning the FA Cup. 
Mike has learned that football is not just a game when you come from a footballing town - its family history and pride. 
We watched the game in a bar in central Barcelona where we have watched many United games but this time it was full of blues - Alisons accent came back as she chatted with fellow Mancunians about football and the best night clubs of the 70s!!!  It was very emotional when the cup was lifted - its been a long time coming - well done lads

The fireworks have started

It seems there is always a Festival somewhere.  Last week it was the Feria de Abril (April Festival) and now it's the Festes de Maig (May Festival).  Last night we took the tram and train - all public transport runs to time, every 10 mins, immaculatley clean, one system connects with the next - and joined the 1000s of locals on the beach to watch an amazing firework display before a gigantic effegy of the devil was burned.

As we have to take public transport wherever we go we always have to allow extra time for travelling but it has become part of the adventure to see how many forms we can take.  Getting to church on Sundays takes a couple of hours so we use that as an excuse to visit lots of cafes on the way back.  We have found a lovely little English Church - St Georges! - with a very uplifting atmosphere.

Mike has been busy painting again today - the old girl (Phoenix!!!) - is beginning to look quite posh.

We have spent this evening planning a trip - hopefully Friday - into the mountains.  We are hiring a car and heading for a National Park in the Pyranees.  We've also had to readvertise for crew as we have been let down by a couple of people.

Spanish style

We went to a Spanish music and food festival last night.  It was fantastic - amazing food and wonderful dancing and dresses.
Here is a taste of the dancing - you'll have to take our word for the food!!!

 

2011 tour begins

After marrying on 16 April, Mr & Mrs Foulkes left the UK on 20 April for the start of Phoenix on Tour 2011.

We were both extremely tired when we first arrived in Barcelona after the rigours of marriage preparations as well as getting the house ready for summer visitors and packing for six months away from home. But Phoenix is now almost ship shape and we have even managed a weekend away in the mountains near Murcia with friends Debra and Bill.
We watched the other wedding with them on Spanish tv and though a good effort we know which one we enjoyed most!