Knowing that passing through the canal would be a once in a lifetime journey we took turns in helming with only a few metres either side.
Somethings never change. Old wooden fishing boats in daily use from the port of Aegina.
We drank beer, swam and made merry down through the islands if Kithnos, Sifnos, Milos and into Thira. We had a premature leaving from the port of Sifnos where we woke up a mile out to sea in a force 6 after dragging our anchor. However, we understand from other skippers that this is a 'right-of-passage' in these islands.
The fiercest Meltemi in 20 years blew from the north as Phoenix
sailed infront of it heading south. Paul pleaded for all sails to be
hoisted but the captain stuck to his guns and a maximum of three
was maintained. Fabbi was a trooper and kept everyone well fed
when she was the only one capable of going below.
Old Thira built on a mountain top after the original town (some say - including us - to be the mythical town of Atlantis) was blown away in a volcanic eruption in 1453BC. This also, according to the pilot book, produced a tsunami 100mtres high which moved throught the Med at 160kph from which the Minoans never recovered.
Throughout the islands there are churches perched on mountain tops, squeezed into the tiniest of spaces in towns and villages and in the middle of fields in the middle of nowhere - and they are all locked! However, we have been in a couple of larger churches and even a monastery chapel which were very ellaborate - Greek Orthodox - but had a feeling of serenity and holyness.